Saturday, August 30, 2008

I am a Jelly Doughnut

For those of you true Berliners you already know that this blog post title is from JFK's infamous attempt at German, declaring "Ich bin ein Berliner" instead of "Ich bin Berliner." Well, Team Mildren-Mueller would like to think of itself as a hybrid jelly doughnut (Mildren)-Berlin citizen (Mueller).

Since Rob is from Berlin (the former Eastern part), we stayed with his family while visiting, which was fantastic. Even though we couldn't understand any German, they took hospitality to a whole new level! Not only did his family offer us a comfortable and friendly stay, but Rob himself acted as an extremely knowledgeable, patient, and interested city ambassador. He answered our million+ questions about the city and its history, took us to see all the attractions, took us to the best authentic döner kebab restaurant in a Turkish neighborhood, and he offered a unique perspective of what politics and city life is like these days. We cannot thank him enough for being so fun and helpful! What a great friend and fun travel partner! Thank you, Rob!!

Rob Mueller
Our beloved best buddy & Berliner :)

Of our entire stay in Europe, Berlin was the most exciting, exhillarating, and eye-catching city of the trip. I am officially claiming it as my favorite city in the world, earning the title after only a short, touristy visit. We also got to visit several museums, which is always a treat in Europe, especially with such giant and profound collections found in Berlin. We saw some amazing collections of classic, modern, and post-modern art!

Rodin's original sculpture of The Thinker

Picasso piece from the Berggruen museum

Berlin gives off the feel of a well designed, cosmopolitan community looking forward to the next big movement in culture and design, while its physical and psychological reminders keep it constantly grounded to its past of opulence, injustice, divisiveness, and war. For those of you jelly doughnuts, there is more to Berlin than the wall that divided it from 1961-1989. [Info mainly from Berlin.de and other sites]

A perfect example of Berlin architecture:
A building that is past and posh!

Berlin was established as a trading center and was ruled for more than 500 years by the Hohenzollern family. Starting in 1740, Berlin became a center for the Enlightenment movement in Europe, and this was when many of Berlin's more eloquent and lasting pieces of architecture were constructed, under Friedrich the Great.

During the 1800s the city flourished as the nation's political, economic, and scientific capital, leading the way in industry, arts, science, business, and research, encouraged by Kaiser Wilhelm I. The first parts of the 20th century were dominated by WWI and WWII.


Hitler's rise to power ended the democratic Weimar Republic and brought the National Socialist takeover and all its horrors: war, concentration camps, massive destruction and occupation of Western Europe, genocide, and totalitarian rule. In 1943, large-scale bombing of Berlin occurred, followed in 1945 by the ravaging Battle for Berlin.

After the war ends on 8 May 1945, much of Berlin is nothing but rubble: 600,000 apartments have been destroyed, and only 2.8 million of the city’s original population of 4.3 million still live in the city. In accordance with an agreement signed by the Allies, the city is divided into four sectors and administered jointly by the occupying powers, the United States of America, Great Britain, France, and the Soviet Union.

An old map of Berlin boundaries, divided by the Wall

Although the intent was for the occupying powers to govern Germany together inside the agreed-upon borders, the advent of Cold War tension caused the French, British and American zones to be formed into the Federal Republic of Germany (and West Berlin) in 1949, excluding the Soviet zone, which then formed the German Democratic Republic (GDR; including East Berlin).

A Trabant ("Trabi"), the standard East German car
Supposedly green Trabants bring good luck!


West Germany developed into a western capitalist country with a social market economy and a democratic government. On the other side, East Germany established an authoritarian government with a Soviet-style planned economy. While West Germany became rich, many East Germans wanted to move to West Germany, so the East German government constructed the Berlin Wall to stop East Germans from fleeing, and the wall remained until 1989.

Red Town Hall
Served as East Berlin's town hall during the Cold War era


During the Wall's time, many East German monuments and buildings were constructed as symbols of the GDR's power and dominance, regardless of its citizens' poor living conditions and access to resources. However, the economic, political, and moral decline of the Soviet Union caused the Velvet (peaceful) Revolution in '89, and soon the Wall came down.

The Berlin Wall's old physical boundaries are still marked throughout the city
It was interesting to see that people lived completely
different lives depending on what side of the city they lived in!

Following the destruction of the Wall, construction in Berlin exploded, and a multitude of new architectural styles and building designs were tested and proliferated throughout the city. Our favorite modern buildings were the innovative designs surrounding Potsdamer Platz. In the 90s Berlin was given back to Germany from the Allied Powers, it regained the seat of the government, began holding congressional sessions at the newly re-designed Bundestag (formerly known as the Reichstag), and the Bradenburg gate was restored.

***
Okay, enough history! But the city's history is so important to its desire to be continually attempting to recreate a new name for itself as a sophisticated and forward-thinking international city capital. While on one hand it does not shy away from its past and publicly acknowledges Germany's past mistakes and struggles, it is also intent on recognition for its current progressive achievements in society. A fascinating city to say the least!

So what were our favorite parts of the city? Well, we walked most of it, and it seems impossible to narrow it down to only a few sightings! But for the sake of brevity....here are our Top 10 favorite attractions. We could have spent an entire day at each one!

Brandenburg Gate
For its simple beauty and political role


Potsdamer Platz
for its architecture and modern feel



Neptune's Fountain
for its awesome sculptures!

Neptune sits atop the fountain,
praised by animals and sirens beneath



The Bundestag (Reichstag)
for its old-meets-new/East-meets-West symbolism


You could walk up to the top of the glass dome,
which sits inside of the old Reichstag building


Berliner Dome
for its symmetrical and spiritual beauty


Pergamom Museum
for Ishtar Gate and its relief collection

Part of Ishtar Gate


Schloss Charlottenburg
for its astounding, sprawling palace gardens



Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtniskirche
for its representation of Berlin's bombing and subsequent recovery

The church did not get restored as a reminder of the bombing
The tower looks so incomplete!

Unter den Linden
for its vibrancy and historical buildings along the promenade
Equestrian Statue of Frederick the Great

The Berlin Bear never looked so frightening (or fun!)

James found a Bugatti store along the Unter de Linden

Checkpoint Charlie * Berlin Wall * East Side Gallery
For its (almost) unbelievable history of a separated city

Parts of the wall are displayed throughout the city

Checkpoint Charlie

A famous graffiti part of the East Side Gallery,
thee longest standing stretch of the Berlin Wall





7 comments:

Anonymous said...

First of all, great job Beth on this blog! Berlin really was fantastic.

Neptune's Fountain was by far the most spectacular fountain I've ever seen, and it ranks high on my list of favorite pieces of art. We were lucky enough to see more sculptures by the artist in the Old National Gallery. Check out our Picasa page for more pictures of it.

Eating true Berlin donners (the Turkish sandwich, somewhat like a gyro) was a treat. We stuffed ourselves on them one evening at Rob's favorite place.

And as a car fanatic, seeing that Bugatti Veryon in person was really cool. It produces 1001 horsepower, can go 253 mph, costs $1 million, making it the fastest, most expensive street legal car.

Lynda said...

What a fantastic city! I never dreamed when you left for your 2 year adventure that those of us back at home would ALSO experience and learn so much, thanks to your thoughtful and well-written blogs. Thanks for helping me understand history and culture as seen and reported by you.

Holly said...

Beth, fantastic job! I lived in Berlin on three separate occasions, the longest being about four years (1999 - 2003), and it is also my favorite city in the world. I admire your patience to sum up Berlin's history -- that's certainly something I've never attempted to do.

I'm glad to hear you got to see the major sights. There really is so much to see and do. So, next time you go back, don't worry about "having seen it all." There are still tons more things to experience. It's a city that keeps on giving and giving...and it's always changing.

I remember the first time I flew back into Berlin -- that was when I was there just for a semester, and I had taken a side trip to Spain. As we came in at night, and I saw the lights and the things I recognized, particularly the Siegessaeule (Victory Column) in Tiergarten, I knew -- just knew -- that from now on every time I came into Berlin I would be coming home.

It's such a magical city. I'm so glad it captured your imagination.

Unknown said...

Hey: linked to your post from Linden. God, I love Berlin: it's my favorite city too, and seeing all of your's and Linden's pictures sure brought back good memories. Only, I didn't know that the Ishtar Gate was in Berlin!! I'm so mad I missed that one!

kjl said...

I love hearing about your amazing travels! The pictures are fabulous too. :)

The Free State Farmgirls said...

Wow. Loved the pictures. Loved the history lesson even more. It even makes me, home body extraordinaire, want to go see this amazing city. You and the Berlin Bear...so hilarious! I miss your sense of humor!

Anyway, I'm loving catching up on you via your blog. Isn't the web a fabulous place?

Love,
Jen

Thomas said...

*Sigh* Kennedy did not make a mistake. „Ich bin ein Berliner” was absolutely correct.